Hydrostatic pressure
Water pushes with weight — at 2 m depth already 200 g/cm². Classic pool paints come off at the deep line first, then the problem spreads upward. The coating peels off in strips.
pool
Pool coating
Pool coating
with liquid rubber — waterproof & chlorine-resistant
Elastic protective and decorative coating for concrete swimming pools — UV-stable, with smooth easy-to-clean surface. Suitable as an additional protective layer over existing primary waterproofing. Direct on prepared concrete, no specialist pool contractor needed.
summarize
At a glance
Liquid rubber pool coating seals concrete, steel and polyester pools seamlessly, and stands up to chlorine. The elastic membrane bridges settlement cracks and copes with freeze-thaw cycles. Apply in 2–3 coats by brush or airless spray; the pool can be filled with water after 28 days of curing.
Why pool coatings fail
A pool is one of the toughest applications around — permanent water load, chemicals, UV. The wrong material is unusable in 2–3 seasons. Refurbishment costs a fortune once a specialist firm has to come in.
Chlorine attacks classic enamels
Free chlorine (0.5–3 mg/l standard for swimming pools) is a strong oxidiser. Standard enamels are attacked, discolour, become brittle. After 1–2 seasons cracks and discolouration are visible.
Algae infestation & green pool
Micro-fine cracks or a rough surface give algae a foothold. Once established, they are hard to remove — the pool turns green, water must be fully changed. A smooth, sealed surface is essential.
Why liquid rubber for pools
Suitable with standard pool care
Suitable with standard pool care (free chlorine < 1.5 mg/l, pH 6.8–8.2). Also in salt-electrolysis pools with well-maintained water chemistry. With aggressive chemicals or permanent over-chlorination the coating can be attacked.
Protective layer over primary waterproofing
Elastic acrylic coating as an additional protective and decorative layer over an existing, properly executed primary pool waterproofing. Follows thermal movements of the substrate without cracking.
Smooth surface
Algae have nothing to cling to. Clean with a pool brush and a standard cleaner — no rough surface for dirt to settle into.
UV-stable, no embrittlement
Stays flexible and elastic in direct summer sun. Unlike traditional pool paints, which go brittle under UV and need replacing after 3 years.
Step-by-step guide
Step 01
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05
Empty and clean the pool
A dry substrate is essential.
Fully drain the pool, let dry — at least 7 days in sunny weather, longer if cloudy. Use a pressure washer to remove algae, limescale and old coating residue. Mechanically loosen any peeling areas, close cracks > 1 mm with concrete repair mortar and let cure for 7 days.
For old, defective coating we recommend removing completely down to solid concrete — half measures ruin the result.
Pro tip: Have the residual moisture of the pool concrete measured with the carbide method — moisture below 4 % is essential, otherwise layers come off later under water pressure.
Step 02
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05
Prime with deep-penetrating primer
Stabilise absorbent pool concrete.
Pool concrete is highly absorbent after cleaning. Apply deep primer, let dry for 24 h. This reduces first-coat consumption and significantly improves adhesion. For pools with old, defective coating, strip down to concrete first, then prime.
Apply deep primer thinly — a thick coat forms glossy spots that later fail under water pressure.
Pro tip: On very porous or cracked pool concrete: first apply a repair-mortar slurry as an equaliser, then deep primer — you get a perfectly prepared surface.
Step 03
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05
First coat — penetration
Diluted with up to 5 % water (up to 10 % with airless sprayer).
Diluted with up to 5 % water (up to 10 % with airless sprayer). Brush and lambswool roller. Consumption 200–250 g/m² (pool concrete is highly absorbent). Particularly careful on floor-to-wall transitions, at inlet jets and skimmer connections — these detail points demand gapless coverage.
Pool coating must be perfect — gaps or pinholes become leaks under water pressure.
Pro tip: At floor-to-wall transitions embed polyester fleece (60 g/m²) into the wet coat — prevents cracks from settling movement of the pool shell over the years.
Step 04
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05
Second coat — sealer
Undiluted after 24 h of drying.
Undiluted, cross to the first coat. Consumption 150–200 g/m². Let dry until fully sealed — for pool application at least 8 h, ideally overnight. Wait longer in cooler weather or high humidity.
The coat must no longer be tacky to finger pressure and leave no impressions.
Pro tip: Cover the pool during work — prevents pollen, dust and insects landing in the wet coat, which would remain permanently visible under water.
Step 05
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05
Third coat — deep line + jets
Reinforcement for high-load zones.
Third coat at the deep line (lower 60 cm), transitions to jets, skimmer and steps. Reinforces the most heavily loaded zone, prevents delamination at key points. Consumption 100–150 g/m². Allow full cure — minimum 14 days before water filling, 28 days for full load capacity.
Before filling, sweep the pool thoroughly — dust and insects would remain permanently visible under water.
Pro tip: Fill the pool slowly the first time (over several hours) — hydrostatic pressure builds gradually and the coating can adjust, instead of being loaded all at once.
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Pro tip
Pool coating requires three coats instead of the usual two. Apply the third coat especially in the deep line and at inlet/outlet jets. Fill with water no earlier than 14 days after full curing, ideally after 28 days. IMPORTANT: RubberPaint is intended as an additional protective and decorative coating — a suitable primary pool waterproofing must already be professionally installed.
Technical data
Total consumption (3 coats)
0.5–0.6 kg/m²
Recommended coats
3 (deep line + jets)
Drying time
2 h dust-dry · 8 h recoatable
Curing before water filling
14–28 days
Full cure
28 days
Use case
Decorative and protective layer over existing primary waterproofing
Recommended water quality
free chlorine < 1.5 mg/l, pH 6.8–8.2 (standard pool care)
Binder note
Acrylic-latex coating — not suitable for aggressive chemicals
Elasticity
highly elastic (Class A0/C0 to EN 1062-1)
Service temperature
−20 °C to +50 °C
Binder
Acrylic latex (solvent-free)
How much material do I need?
Enter your area and desired number of coats — we recommend the optimum tub combination.
m²
Standard: 2 coats. 3 for heavily exposed surfaces.
info
Consumption: 170 g/m² per coat. +10 % buffer for offcuts and uneven surfaces. For larger projects (> 80 m²) contact us for individual advice.
Recommendation
6,6 kg
needed
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06 / Bestsellers
Recommended colours for pools
Light blue and dark blue make water look clearer and deeper — the pool classics. Light green for a tropical feel, white for maximum brightness, grey for modern architectural pools.
Bestsellers
Liquid Rubber Paint Light Blue RAL 5012
from €29,99
incl. VAT, excl. shipping
Liquid Rubber Paint Dark Blue RAL 5005
from €29,99
incl. VAT, excl. shipping
Liquid Rubber Paint White RAL 9003
from €29,99
incl. VAT, excl. shipping
Liquid Rubber Paint Light Green RAL 6018
from €29,99
incl. VAT, excl. shipping
Liquid Rubber Paint Grey RAL 7046
from €29,99
incl. VAT, excl. shipping
Pool Paint — Elastic Coating for Concrete & Steel Pools
Important before you buy: liquid rubber / liquid rubber paint is not a substitute for chlorine-resistant pool liners. For fresh-water and rainwater basins, water play features and ornamental ponds, however, it is an elastic, waterproof solution.
When liquid rubber works for a pool
Suitable for:
- Rainwater collection tanks and cisterns
- Natural and ornamental ponds (without aggressive chemicals)
- Children's water play features (with fresh water every day)
- Concrete pools without chlorine treatment (salt-water pools with electrolysis: test first)
Not suitable for:
- Chlorinated swimming pools (chlorine attacks acrylic latex over time)
- Bromine pools
- Spas at high temperatures (constantly above 40 °C)
Application in a suitable pool
In fresh-water and rainwater basins, liquid rubber (also called rubber paint, rubberised paint or flexible coating) forms an elastic, waterproof membrane on concrete. It moves with the substrate (freeze-thaw, soil pressure) without cracking. We recommend 3 coats and full curing for 28 days before filling.
Step by step
- Empty the pool and dry it thoroughly. Empty the pool completely and let it dry for at least 7 days. For concrete pools: no residual moisture left in the pores.
- Clean. Pressure washer plus degreaser. Remove all old loose coating. Pre-treat cracks and spalling with a cement-based repair compound (28 days curing).
- First coat with reinforcement at the floor-wall junction. Embed reinforcing fleece in the cove and saturate it. The floor-wall junction is the most common leak point.
- Second and third coats over the whole area. Leave at least 6 h between coats, longer at low temperatures (below 18 °C). Total thickness approx. 0.8–1.0 mm dry film.
- 28 days full curing before filling. No water before 28 days. Fill slowly — never aim a jet of water directly at the coating.
Pro tip.
Run a safety test before a big pool investment: coat a 50 × 50 cm test patch in an inconspicuous corner, fill it with water and test it for 2 weeks. Only then apply over the whole area.
How much do you need?
For 3 coats on concrete: 0.5 kg/m². For a 25 m² natural pond ≈ 13 kg (2 × 6 kg + 1 × 3.5 kg).
Which colour?
Green (RAL 6005) for natural ponds (it blends in with algae tones), Grey (RAL 7046) for modern concrete pools, Black (RAL 9005) for water surfaces that look deep.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Chlorinated pool without a test patch — acrylic latex is attacked over time
- Filling before 28 days — the coating gets damaged
- Floor-wall junction without reinforcement — the typical leak point
- Painting onto a wet floor slab — no adhesion
FAQ
Does it work in a chlorinated pool?
We do not recommend it. Chlorine attacks acrylic latex over time. For pure fresh-water or rainwater basins: yes.
How long does the coating last?
In a fresh-water pool: at least 7 years. Longer with frequent water changes.
Can I walk on it?
Yes — with quartz sand worked in it becomes slip-resistant (R10–R11). Plain, the surface is slippery when wet.
Is it easy to look after?
Washable with water and mild cleaners (wet-scrub class 1 to EN 13300). No aggressive chemicals.
Ready to start? Choose your colour and tub size.
Go to the shop → · Application overview · FAQ
Related terms: Our product is sold in DIY stores and the trade under several names — liquid rubber, liquid rubber paint, liquid membrane, rubber paint, rubberised paint, flexible coating, elastic exterior paint or polymer coating. They all mean the same product: a waterproof, highly elastic coating based on acrylic latex.
FAQ — pool coating
- Can I paint over an old pool coating?
- Only if the old coating is 100 % sound — which is rarely the case with old pools. Recommendation: remove the old coating completely (sandblasting or hammer drill with chisel), down to solid concrete. Then deep primer, then RubberPaint in 3 coats. Half-measures ruin the result and cost double.
- When can I refill the pool with water?
- Earliest after 14 days of curing, ideal after 28 days. Filling earlier means the coating doesn't reach its full strength and can fail under water pressure. Patience pays off — waiting an extra season is far cheaper than a full refurbishment.
- How long does the coating last with heavy use?
- With correct application and normal pool care: many seasons. Key: keep pH in the standard pool range (6.8–8.2), chlorine below 1.5 mg/l (standard care recommendation), tackle algae early. Annual visual inspection at water change, spot-coat repair areas — drastically extends service life.
- Does it work with saltwater chlorinator pools?
- Yes, RubberPaint is also suitable for salt-electrolysis pools. Salt itself isn't an issue — chlorine spikes from electrolysis can briefly run higher than standard chlorination. Key: regular chlorine measurement; on spikes above 5 mg/l, increase water volume or reduce electrolysis output.
- Can I coat a hot tub or spa area?
- Whirlpool yes, with one limitation: temperatures above +40 °C continuously can stress the coating. With regular whirlpool operation (38–40 °C) RubberPaint holds reliably. For spas with higher temperatures (e.g. sauna plunge pools with temperature swings): clarify the material recommendation with our support team beforehand.
More applications
Also suitable for other substrates
The same elastic liquid-rubber coating for many more applications — explore all use cases.
roofing
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Flat roof
waterproof
domain
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Facade
paint
foundation
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Basement wall
waterproof
balcony
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Balcony
waterproof
foundation
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Concrete
Exterior paint
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Wood
paint
hardware
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pool
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Pool
Coating
Got a technical question?
Our technical team advises on complex applications, substrate analysis and film-thickness calculation.