Metal & rust protection
with liquid rubber — direct-to-rust
hardware Metal & rust protection

Metal & rust protection
with liquid rubber — direct-to-rust

Elastic coating for steel, iron, aluminium and corrugated sheeting. Stops existing rust, protects against weather and follows the thermal expansion of the metal — no cracks, no spalling.

summarize At a glance

Liquid rubber as a corrosion coating goes straight over firmly adhering surface rust — no full sandblasting required. The elastic coating creates an airtight barrier that stops oxidation and bridges stress cracks. Suitable for corrugated sheet, steel beams, railings, gates and machinery parts outdoors.

01 / The problem

Why metal protection usually fails

Metal moves more than any other building material — it expands, contracts, vibrates. Classic enamels are rigid and crack. As soon as the slightest damage occurs, rust starts — and can't be stopped, it eats further.

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Rust keeps spreading

Once started, rust spreads under the paint. Classic enamels get blasted off from below. After 2–3 years the entire paint crumbles — the damage is usually beyond saving.

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Traditional paints peel off

Metal expands with heat by 0.012 mm/m/°C. In the summer-winter cycle that means several millimetres of movement — rigid paints crack and peel; sandblasting + repainting costs thousands.

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Salt-laden air + winter

Road salt, coastal locations or pool surroundings speed up corrosion by a factor of 3–5. Standard paints rarely last more than 2 years there — a specialist product for salt exposure is essential.

02 / Why RubberPaint

Why liquid rubber for metal protection

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Follows metal movements

Highly elastic and crack-bridging — moves with the thermal expansion of the metal without splitting. This is exactly where traditional paints fail.

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Direct over rust (after treatment)

Firmly adhering rust is neutralised with a rust converter and then over-coated directly. Saves the cost of sandblasting — you can spot-repair instead of stripping back and starting again.

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Salt- and splash-water resistant

Stands up to coastal locations, road-salt exposure and poolside use. Performs where traditional paints throw in the towel after 2 years.

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−20 °C to +50 °C

Even in high summer on sun-exposed steel (corrugated roofs, dark gates) the coating stays elastic and intact.

03 / Application

Step-by-step guide

Step 01 / 05

Remove loose rust mechanically

Wire brush, grinding disc or sandblasting.

Use wire brush, grinding disc or sandblasting to remove loose rust and old, flaking coatings — down to a sound substrate. Work welds and screw connections particularly thoroughly, as rust nests sit here. Firmly adhered surface rust stays — it'll be converted in the next step.

For heavily rusted spots, have welds or individual sheets replaced — coating alone won't save eaten-through steel.

Pro tip: Sandblasting gives the best surface (St 2.5 to EN ISO 8501-1) — for large areas, rental equipment from a DIY store is much cheaper than professional treatment.

Remove loose rust mechanically
Step 02 / 05

Apply rust converter

Converts iron oxide into a stable compound.

On firmly adhered surface rust: apply a commercial rust converter (phosphoric-acid based) evenly. Let act for 24 h, then wipe with a damp cloth. Converts iron oxide into a stable, neutral compound that serves as a bonding base for the coating.

Smooth transitions between rust-free and treated areas with sandpaper.

Pro tip: Only apply rust converter on fully dry rust — on damp rust the phosphoric acid doesn't react properly and the result is unstable.

Apply rust converter
Step 03 / 05

Degrease — critical step

With acetone or brake cleaner.

Clean the entire surface with acetone or brake cleaner — removes invisible oils, grease and residue from the rust converter. Wipe with lint-free cloths, change often. Let dry for 30 minutes — don't touch with bare hands afterwards.

On large areas wear gloves and re-degrease after every break — hand sweat is just as problematic as lubricant.

Pro tip: On non-ferrous metals (aluminium, galvanised steel) degreasing isn't enough — these need roughening with grit 80–120 sandpaper or a special primer for non-ferrous metals.

Degrease — critical step
Step 04 / 05

First coat — base barrier

Undiluted, applied generously.

Apply the first coat undiluted and generously. With brush or short-pile roller. Consumption 150–200 g/m². Particularly generous on edges, welds and screw connections — these are the most vulnerable, where corrosion starts. Gapless coverage, no pinholes (small visible holes).

On vertical surfaces work top to bottom and spread out drips immediately.

Pro tip: Light the wet coat from a flat angle with a torch — pinholes become immediately visible and can still be touched up before the layer dries.

First coat — base barrier
Step 05 / 05

Second coat — armour

Cross to the first, after 4 h.

After 4 h apply the second coat cross to the first. Consumption again 150–200 g/m². In salty environments (coast, road-salt area) or industrial exhaust, a third coat is recommended. Rain-resistant after 6 h (manufacturer specification), fully load-bearing after 28 days.

In the splash zone (ground contact, lower 30 cm) also a third coat — these areas are salt-stressed.

Pro tip: Annual visual inspection of the weather side — touch up small damage immediately, otherwise rust spreads further under the coat.

Second coat — armour
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Pro tip

Degreasing is the underrated step — even minimal grease residue (hand sweat, lubricant, old paint) prevents lasting adhesion. Wipe thoroughly with acetone or special degreaser using fresh cloths. After degreasing, don't touch the metal with bare hands.

04 / Specifications

Technical data

Consumption per coat 150–200 g/m² (full coverage)
Recommended coats 2 (3 with salt exposure)
Drying time 2 h dust-dry · 4 h recoatable
Rain resistance after 6 h (manufacturer specification)
Full cure 28 days
Application temperature +10 °C to +30 °C
Service temperature −20 °C to +50 °C
Elasticity highly elastic (Class A0/C0 to EN 1062-1)
Substrate preparation De-rust + degrease + anti-corrosion primer (TM Maxima)
Binder Acrylic latex (solvent-free)
Tool cleaning Water, immediately after application
Material calculator

How much material do I need?

Enter your area and desired number of coats — we recommend the optimum tub combination.

Standard: 2 coats. 3 for heavily exposed surfaces.

info

Consumption: 175 g/m² per coat. +10 % buffer for offcuts and uneven surfaces. For larger projects (> 80 m²) contact us for individual advice.

Recommendation

6,6 kg needed

Calculating…

Total quantity
Total price

Free shipping from £170 — review your basket after adding.

Metal Paint — Direct-to-Rust Protective Coating

Paint a metal roof, protect corrugated iron, rescue rusty metal: the elastic coating bonds directly to firmly adhering rust — no laborious rust removal.

Painting a metal roof — which paint actually lasts?

A metal roof moves: in summer sun the metal expands, at night it contracts again. Rigid paint cracks exactly along this movement, water runs under the film, and rust keeps growing underneath. An elastic paint moves with the metal and stays watertight.

Suitable for corrugated iron, trapezoidal sheet, galvanised steel, steel beams, railings, fences, gates and tanks outdoors.

Why conventional anti-rust paint fails

  • Multi-coat systems (rust removal + primer + topcoat) are laborious and expensive
  • Conventional paint cracks as the metal expands with heat — water gets through and rust keeps spreading
  • Bitumen paint is not UV-stable
  • Galvanised steel needs a special adhesion primer before any coating

Direct-to-rust with acrylic latex

Liquid rubber (also called rubber paint, rubberised paint or flexible coating) bonds directly to rusty steel without laborious rust removal. The elastic membrane encapsulates the corrosion and blocks further oxygen and moisture from reaching the metal. On galvanised steel, use a thin adhesion primer first.

Step by step

  1. Remove loose rust flakes. Take off all loose flakes with a wire brush or grinder. Firmly adhering rust can stay — liquid rubber / liquid rubber paint seals it in.
  2. Degrease. Washing-up liquid and warm water, or acetone on aluminium and galvanised surfaces. Leave to dry.
  3. Galvanised steel: prime. New Galvalume or galvanised steel needs an adhesion primer (PU bonding agent). Old, weathered zinc: not necessary.
  4. First coat straight onto the rust. Work it undiluted into the rust pores with a brush. Coverage approx. 150 g/m². This coat encapsulates the rust particles.
  5. Second coat. Full coverage with roller or sprayer, again approx. 150 g/m². Weatherproof after 6 h.
Pro tip. On corrugated roofs, treat the screw points separately — with reinforcing fleece or two applications directly around each screw. These are the most common leak points.

How much do you need?

For 2 coats on metal (low absorbency): 0.2–0.3 kg/m². For a 40 m² corrugated roof ≈ 10–12 kg (3 × 3.5 kg plus reserve).

Which colour?

Black (RAL 9005) and Graphite (RAL 7024) for an industrial look. Brown (RAL 8017) and Red-Brown (RAL 3009) for traditional corrugated roofs.

👉 See all 14 RAL colours

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Leaving loose rust flakes on — the coating flakes off with them
  • Galvanised steel without primer — no adhesion, the coating peels
  • Painting in dew or morning damp — no adhesion
  • Forgetting the screw points — water gets in

FAQ

Does it hold on galvanised steel?

Yes — with a thin PU bonding primer, or directly on old weathered zinc. New zinc needs a primer.

Does it stop active rust?

It encapsulates the rust and blocks oxygen and moisture. With heavy corrosion (pitting), repair the metal first.

UV-resistant?

Yes, tested to DSTU ISO 16474-2. Service life of at least 7 years.

On aluminium?

Yes, after degreasing with acetone. Aluminium does not rust like steel, but adhesion benefits from keying the surface with fine abrasive paper.


Ready to start? Choose your colour and tub size.

Go to the shop → · Application overview · FAQ


Related terms: Our product is sold in DIY stores and the trade under several names — liquid rubber, liquid rubber paint, liquid membrane, rubber paint, rubberised paint, flexible coating, elastic exterior paint or polymer coating. They all mean the same product: a waterproof, highly elastic coating based on acrylic latex.

08 / FAQ

FAQ — metal protection

Can I apply it straight over rust?
Not directly — remove loose, flaking rust mechanically first (wire brush, grinding disc). Firmly adhered surface rust must be neutralised with rust converter. Then degrease and coat. RubberPaint isn't a rust converter; it's a rust barrier after pre-treatment.
Does it work on galvanised steel?
Yes, but the zinc surface must be roughened — either with sandpaper (grit 80–120) or a galvanising primer. Smooth galvanisation provides too little adhesion. After sanding, degrease and coat as usual.
Is it suitable for stainless steel or aluminium?
Yes, but with primer for non-ferrous metals. Both surfaces are smooth and non-absorbent — without primer adhesion is poor. After primer and degreasing, coat as you would on steel. Test on an inconspicuous spot recommended.
On a corrugated steel or profiled metal roof?
Ideal. Corrugated sheeting expands hugely in the day-night cycle — this is where RubberPaint shows its advantage over rigid enamels. Coat the grooves particularly carefully (water-drainage points), reinforce edge connections to the wall with fleece.
How long does the protection last in salt-laden air?
With correct application and a third coat: significantly longer than classic enamels which often fail after 2 years in salt environments. For coastal locations or pool surroundings we recommend annual visual inspection and spot re-coating of repair areas — even high-quality coatings last longer in aggressive conditions with regular care.

Got a technical question?

Our technical team advises on complex applications, substrate analysis and film-thickness calculation.